Roast dinners: your ultimate pre-season preview

All the places you need to know for the moment you admit summer's truly over and start craving gravy-soaked meat

Roast dinners: your ultimate pre-season preview

The Newcomer

Dirty Bones (E1)

The Dirty Roast is an exclusive to the just-opened Shoreditch site. So how dirty, how filthy, is it? Not massively. About as dirty as watching the US remake of a Scandi show before you’ve seen the original. Still, it’s bloody good. There’s an unholy fried chicken roast, as well as a brisket and ox one.

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The Masterpiece

Tramshed (EC2)

Imagine you had the kit to serve this chicken. Less a roast, more a Turner-nominated sculpture. Maybe your partner’s parents are coming for lunch. “Yeah sure, I’ll rustle something up,” you snort. Then bang, just when they’re comfy, just when they’re complacent, you slap the beast down. Who’s useless now, Malcolm? Until that’s possible, celebrate it as part of Tramshed’s “Supersized” selection.

Read our full Tramshed review

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The Sharer

Ceviche (EC1)

Time to get the lads together again. But not for the kind of apocalyptic all-day drinking that gets Liability Stu weeping into his Jagerblaster at 3pm. Do it for the made-to-order whole suckling pig! A majestic centrepiece in a Peruvian/Japanese marinade. Alternatively, there’s the glorious Peruvian rotisserie chicken.


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The Sophisticate

Balans Soho Society (W1)

As far away from the Ken Loach-approved vision of the nostalgic British Sunday lunch as you can get. This isn’t gravy-chinned Pa grumbling about Thatcher. This is cultured. This is roasted poussin served on a bed of figs, pine nuts and farro grains.

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The Monster

Blacklock (W1)

There’s no need to go backpacking round Bolivia on a three-month sabbatical to test your limits, chum. Just strut into Blacklock and tell your server you’re going ALL IN. That’ll get you a mixed roast of pork, lamb and beef, all heaped together. You’ll have found yourself alright. Found yourself in a mountain of charred meat.

Read our full Blacklock review

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