"Okay, so The Rake does serve craft beer – in fact it was one of the first pubs to do so – but it would terrify any beer newbie who stumbles across it today. The former Borough Market workers’ café is too small to be a pub. The toilets are awful, and the most pleasant place to drink is out by the bins. The walls are covered in graffiti, the beer is too expensive and the staff don’t care if that upsets you. But it’s still one of the best pubs in London, despite – or perhaps even because of – its many inadequacies."
Pete Brown's new book, The Pub, is out on Thursday (£22.50, Jacqui Small)
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